Charlie Illi from Brooks and Brooks’ banding trend transforms colour application into permanent hair accessories.
The latest banding trend in hair colour represents a sophisticated evolution in placement techniques, also creating striking visual effects. Charlie Illi from Brooks & Brooks has pioneered this innovative approach that transforms strategic colour application into permanent accessories, offering clients distinctive looks without requiring additional styling elements. Her techniques recreate the visual impact of Alice bands and hair accessories through precise colour placement, demonstrating how technical skill can achieve fashion-forward results.
Fashion Week Inspiration Drives Colour Innovation
The banding trend draws inspiration from contemporary fashion shows where oversized, colourful Alice bands became statement accessories throughout various Fashion Weeks. Charlie recognised the potential to recreate these dramatic effects through colour rather than removable accessories, developing techniques that incorporate bands of colour as permanent style elements. This approach acknowledges hair as the ultimate everyday accessory whilst creating unique expressions of personal style through strategic colour placement.
The technique combines foil and freehand application methods to create strong bands of colour that mimic hair accessories without requiring removal or maintenance. “This is one of my favourite colour creations, it’s technically demanding, but that’s exactly what I love about it,” explains Charlie. The method requires precise sectioning as well as controlled application to achieve clean lines whilst maintaining the natural movement and texture that makes each look individually distinctive and commercially viable.
Technical Mastery Behind the Banding Effect
Creating successful banding effects requires exceptional technical precision combined with artistic vision for colour placement as well as intensity. The process begins with strategic cutting to establish foundation lines that showcase the colour bands effectively, with Charlie’s approach emphasising strong structural cuts that form the basis for colour application. The colour application process involves careful sectioning using cross-bun techniques whilst also maintaining parallel partings that follow the head’s natural shape for optimal control, with each section requiring precise foil placement and freehand painting techniques that create clean colour lines without bleeding or unwanted colour transfer.
Step-by-Step Guide to Creating the Banding Effect
STEP 1: Cut First
Start with the haircut to map out the lines. The secret of creating this one-length Roxy bob is to exaggerate the weight at the occipital bone with a short fade into the neck.
STEP 2: Sectioning for colour
Divide the hair into four clean sections using a cross-bun technique, working one section at a time, keeping the partings parallel to the head shape for control.
STEP 3: Painting the line
Lay the first 5mm section on foil and secure with masking tape, mapping the thickness of the colour line. Pre-lighten the section with professional pre-lightener (9 levels and 20 vol), then tape over it to prevent bleeding.
STEP 4: Layering up
Lay the next section on top with a natural fall, avoiding over-direction and tension, then carefully freehand paint the line again. Then repeat this process section by section to the top.
STEP 5: Finishing Touches
After processing, leave the colour raw for maximum vibrancy. Wrap-dry the hair, then add a soft bend at the horseshoe hairline by lifting sections and blow-drying into a curve by hand.
Hair: Charlie Illi, Brooks & Brooks