19 September 2021

Men’s facial shapes: Barberino’s guide to enhance every face

Men’s facial shapes and looks. Here are Barberino’s suggestions to enhance the features of every man’s facial shape and avoid styling errors.

It is wrong to think that it is easier to select a hair cut or beard style for a man. Indeed, like women’s looks, all shapes of men’s faces have very different characteristics and the wrong cut is enough to ruin its harmony. “Knowing how to recognize your own facial shape is a very important step to understanding how to enhance your face and its features by exploiting the cut of the beard and hair,” explains Simone Forini and Ivan Consolo, the Masters of Barberino’s.

The 5 types of men’s facial shapes

There are five main men’s facial shapes: inverted triangle, which has a wide forehead and narrow or pointed chin; round, with no angular lines and nearly equal length and width; oval, where the face is longer, but the features remain soft; square, which instead is defined by an strong jaw; and diamond, with a strong jaw and cheekbones. To discover your own facial shape, in some cases it is enough to consider your own features when looking into a mirror. In others it is more complicated, so it is necessary to use a measuring tape to measure the length of your face (from the hairline to the chin) and the width of the forehead and cheekbones and then compare them.

Here are the suggestions Barberino’s make to identify your own facial shape to find the hair and beard style that best suits your natural good looks.

Inverted triangle (or heart-shaped) like Bradley Cooper and Ryan Gosling

This facial shape makes it possible unleash creativity, to experiment and switch up looks without too many risks. Whether the cut is more natural or structured, it is important to lend volume to the upper part of the head, with shorter lengths on the sides. For the beard, the perfect look would be the so-called full or “hipster” beard, or half-way between a trimmed and scruffy beard. Let the beard grow for at least two months. It will be perfected when the lines of the cheeks are defined. It must be trimmed regularly on the sides to avoid looking puffy or untidy. For those who prefer a more “groomed” effect, try a corporate beard, which is slightly shorter.

The facial shape is an inverted triangle if: the width of the forehead > the width of the cheekbones >the jaw. If the chin is pointed, the face will be a heart-shaped.

Round face like Jeremy Renner and Zac Efron

Typically, the width and length are almost equal and there are no angular features. This shape works best with a short cut on the sides and more volume on top. And a quiff can lend some extra personality. To avoid having a squashed face, the quiff must never fall onto the face, because it would shorten the shape further. To lengthen the form, the ideal solution is the ducktail beard or an unkempt beard. This style is very simple to get and only needs some touching up to prevent it from puffing up and overwhelming the features.

Your face is round if: the length of the face = the width of the cheekbones > the width of the forehead = the jaw (without angular features).

Oval face like Kevin Hart e David Beckham

The oval face conveys a greater sense of balance. This is why it is the most versatile in terms of looks: there are no proportions to rebalance. So you can go wild and follow your own style and tastes, from more classic to more flashy ones. Even when it comes to beard, there is plenty of choice. The idea is to opt for a full and precisely groomed beard. One that works is a ducktail beard (that must be trimmed to precision). Another option is the corporate beard, which can be achieved by simply letting the beard grow for 2 to 6 weeks. Then regularly shave the upper line along the cheeks and the lower part of the neck.

The face is oval if: the length of the face > the width of the cheekbones = the width of the forehead > the jaw.

Square face like Henry Cavill and Brad Pitt

Square or rectangular, this shape means a balanced length and width, but with a strong jaw. The cuts suggested for this type of facial shape are not too flashy, because more linear looks enhance decisive features. So go for very short and shaved cuts, or even mid-lengths with a side quiff over the forehead. Asymmetry here is perfect because it lends a touch of character. So a good option is the Hollywood beard, very similar to the corporate beard but more defined. To get this look, start with a beard that has been growing for 4-6 weeks and lower the cheek line to meet the sideburns. Otherwise, you can remove the sideburns and have the beard end in the corder to the jaw. To add a touch of style, shape the lower part with scissors to give it a pointed shape. But remember to keep the neck clean.

A face is square if: the length of the face = the width of the cheekbones = the width of the forehead = a strong jaw. In case of a rectangular face, the length of the face is a bit longer.

Diamond-shaped face like Robert Pattinson and Cillian Murphy

The diamond-shaped face is the rarest shape among men. There are very strong lines, with a chin and forehead that are narrower than the cheekbones or jaw, which are truly the outstanding features. With such strong lines, the face needs a cut that highlights and enhances them all at once. So opt for a cut that lends width to the forehead and chin, even with a fringe and quiffs on the forehead. Instead, you should avoid cuts that are short on the sides because the ears may appear too big. This type of facial shape looks best with a a particular beard, like the French fork beard which helps to soften the shape. Get this look by starting with a ducktail beard. Then separate the beard into two locks with special scissors and use wax to keep them separate. Even the Van Dyke goatee will work. This beard gets its name from the artist and conveys a strong and unique image. How can you get this look? Let the beard grow and then shave everything except the chin and mustache. If you like, you can even do a handlebar mustache.

A face is diamond-shaped if: the length of the face > the width of the cheekbones > the width of the forehead > the jaw.

For more inspiration on men’s grooming, see this article about the American Crew All Star Global Winners 2021!

Photos: Getty

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