Bobs ‘n’ Ponytails is the latest collection by Michael Haase. When he collaborated with Hans Beers and J’roen Gelderblom in the Netherlands, he brought home plenty of inspiration!
Not only was Michael Haase sharing his craft at the Rogue Academy full immersion in Amsterdam with Hans Beers and J’roen Gelderblom, he was gleaning inspiration! And this Bobs and Ponytails collection is the latest in his creative efforts. Michael is once again innovating and revolutionizing street styles in Los Angeles and beyond.
“This is my favorite collection,” admits Michael Haase. “The time I spent in the late-night clubs and bars in the Netherlands opened my eyes to some really cool stuff for hair. The kids were pulling back their hair and adding a wig, a hat, an ornament or whatever to the top of the head. In some cases the hair was cut to resemble a bob on top of a ponytail and it hit me. I wanted to create a collection that shines in that direction and perhaps we can start a new trend here in LA. So, I began cutting, coloring, creating precise shapes and then destroying them internally for the creative element, perhaps a marriage between Basquiat and Warhol, how much fun is that?”
While studying this collection, more questions came to mind. So we took the opportunity to pick the brains of this hairdressing artist! And Michael kindly obliged!
How did you treat the contrasting colors both in the bobs and ponytails?
Hair prep is, as we know, extremely important to any shoot or fashion show, especially with color. To keep the colors from bleeding into each other, as strong as the contrast is, the bobs and ponytails were treated separately with a clear color wash not unlike a gloss or toner. Each formula was diluted not to interfere with the mouldability and shine of the cuticle.
The cut of the bob was also important since it begins with classic techniques for a perfect geometric shape. Then chaos is introduced with a razor to create texture and volume for photographic purposes only. The street version is a little more subtle for commercial wear. All this was experimental in the beginning. But the concept really caught my interest and, as always, I needed to take it further.
How do you decide on a maxi-fringe or micro-fringe?
Fringe today is extremely boring to me. Problems arise not necessarily due to lack of skill, but lack of experience in young talents. It makes it difficult to envision balance and shape. How many times have we seen social imagery where the stylist is dancing behind the model or client, but the model’s or client’s expression is not exactly celebratory.
I suppose it’s the simple truth that what you have been taught is not always the correct approach without visual experimentation. I believe that in art work the extreme is sometimes necessary. Taking that fringe almost to the hairline is not only visually creative, but also really brings out features without make-up. At times we may not appreciate fresh-faced beauty without trying it. In a few of these images, I wanted a naked face or just the eyes. In this way the hair becomes its own piece of art, but may not always have what it takes to looks good commercially.
How do you create those sort of cowlicks on top or add to the volume on the crown? Is that done with cutting or styling or both?
The cut, of course, is the main course. You can’t create a look if the foundation is not there. During the bob placement process, repeated balance checks came about before styling even played a part. Having the model work during this process allowed me to see if it worked or not. Was the color right for her? Did the shape compliment the length or the “hang” of the pony?
Then came the custom cutting and conversation: I needed to understand how to finish with product and manipulation of style. I used MMHAASE “Beachlife” and “Attitude” in the finish. The first is a sodium free volume spray that smells like a day at the beach. I love it! Instead, Attitude is a wax and tapioca styling spray with Bee’s wax.
After all that prep came the chop stix manipulation for shape adjustment and volume. I pulled out the ‘cowlicks” and angled them perfectly for effect. I have to say the love of the process is what keeps me alive and moving forward. The days of rainbow hair and fast long layers and calling it art are a thing if the past. You either create for yourself and live with the outcome and share it and enjoy what you’ve done with others or decide that everyones opinion is more important than your own. Approval is only as good as the hairdresser approving it. If you’re still shaving the perimeter and leaving a long bowl on top and adding 20 different colors and calling it art, well, don’t you think its time to reinvent yourself? Don’t be boring, there are too many that are.
@Rogueacademy.nl these techniques are what make our classes so different from other education. We not only cover cutting in art and commercial, but we take it that extra step further. We aim to train the eye to be able to experiment with a more confidence.
Credits:
Hair, Make-up, wardrobe, photo: MMHAASE