25 April 2024

How To: Refining Hair with Paul Watts

As hairdressers, it’s our job to be creative. We provide our clients with the most fabulous styles and incredible transformations. However, refining hair or removing weight is something we don’t necessarily get taught within the foundations (Images by Bobheads).

Refining Hair
Joico Europe Ambassador & Educator, Paul Watts

Refining hair is something you learn through experience and your career,” explains Joico Europe Ambassador & Educator, Paul Watts “It’s a creative skill, which takes time to develop and execute perfectly, but can often be tricky when working on different types and textures of hair. It’s a skill that is used consistently within our hairdressing careers and something we should discuss more!”

Refining Hair
Images by Bobheads


The Tools You Need!

When refining hair, making sure you have the right tools to hand is essential, as you want to make sure you are comfortable using them and that you know they can help you create the look in your vision. For me personally, I have different scissors for different hair types and textures as I feel much more comfortable using specific pairs on certain types. When refining, I always use soft cut scissors – they are revolutionary!

The Prep

When prepping the hair, knowing you will be removing weight, it’s hugely important not to use products which will weight down the hair. I personally would recommended the JOICO K-PAK Reconstructing Shampoo and Conditioner, as it protects, nourishes and leaves hair soft and workable. Of course if applicable, I would use a colour protection shampoo, ie JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy – this again is extremely lightweight and my product of choice.

The Soft Cut Approach

For me, the best way to describe this skill, is when working on a graduated bob. Using soft cut scissors, take a section at the back of the head, make a start with a deep cut. Holding the section at a 90degree angle, you want to cut straight into the hair, deeply. This creates the most beautiful, soft and light cut. It allows you to remove weight whilst creating gorgeous layers. The hair then falls naturally without prominent lines.

Vertical Graduation

If you want to remove weight whilst creating a flattering shape, using vertical graduation is a great way to do so. Over direct the sections, angling them down slight and using your soft cut scissors, use the straight blade on the bottom, then closing the shears as you exit the cut – creating a subtle graduation. This leaves an extremely flattering shape and lightweight style.

Simple Thinning

Of course, simply removing weight is still one of the most favoured ways to remove weight from the hair. Many clients have been put off with thinning due to the stigma attached to it many years ago, however educating them and showing you’re the true professional will allow you to remove weight easily, creating the haircut and look of dreams.

Cut: Robby Osselaer

Colour: Sofie Schrauwen, BOBHEAD®, Belgium

Make-up: Tom van de Walle

Clothes Styling: Sofie Schrauwen

Photography: Richard Monsieurs

Products: JOICO


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