Learn cutting long layers is key – especially today, knowing that the number one request in salons is layers with face-framing bits.
According to Mandy McCullough, Sam Villa Ambassador and owner of Fix Salon (Seattle) @FancyFinish: “I want something new and on trend, but I don’t want to lose any length” is the mantra of many long hair clients. Watch her demonstrate how to cut a perfect “U” or “V” draped perimeter with face framing layers, fullness and movement here.
“Add the wrong layers and the results can leave hair looking thin and sparse on the ends. Knowing how to strategically add texture and remove bulk can create hair that holds a blowout or iron wave for days!” adds McCullough who suggests using a Blow Dry Hot Brush to refine the look.
Tips for Cutting Long Layers
1. Sectioning: Instead of starting with 4 quadrants to cut the perimeter, cut each quadrant in half and use 8 sections. These smaller sections allow more control in changing the perimeter length from the front to back.
2. Guides: Before cutting the perimeter cut guides to follow. Cut one in the back for the finished length, near the jaw line for the front length, and one that hits somewhere in the middle front of the shoulders. Connect the guides with shears or razor.
3. Dry Hair: Add layers once hair is dry to better read the hair and how it will fall. Try the Sam Villa Signature Series Dry Cutting Shear 7” , the longer blades are convenient for cutting longer lengths.
4. Graduation: Utilize swelling graduation by elevating layer sections up over the head shape until they wrap over the top of the head and then cut. The wrapping creates maximum elevation which maintains length in the perimeter and creates full rounded layers.
5. Movement: Remove weight to add movement on long hair by point cutting the ends to blend and soften the shape. Then use a texture or slide cutting shear – elevate section as if adding layers but remove weight from the midshaft.