Other than opening a salon and advanced education, curating a shear collection is probably the largest investment a hairdresser will have to make and manage.
Investing in higher end materials like Molybdenum, will help shears hold a finer edge for a longer, but Sam Villa, co-founder of Sam Villa and Global Artistic Ambassador for Redken 5th Avenue, says routine maintenance can highly prolong the cutting life of any shear.
5 Tips for Protecting Shears
1. Wipe Off – After each haircut; wipe off any excess hair from the blades with a soft towel.
2. Oil – Add a few drops of shear oil to the inner pivot area and then open and close the shear several times. This will help clean excess debris from the pivot area, then carefully wipe away the excess oil and debris. Clipper oil can be used as well; it’s just a little thicker so use it sparingly.
3. Check Tension – Hold the thumb side of the shear in one hand, lift the finger side with the other until the blades are fully open, then let go. The blades should stay open and not close. If the blade closes partially and there is a spring leaf spring tension system, tighten the screw one click at a time, until minimum tension to keep them open. If too tight, turn the screw or tension knob counter-clockwise, one click at a time. If it is a Click Set Streamline Tension System, (a shear with a screw holding the blades together) conduct the same exercise using the screw key that usually comes with the shear. A shear with loose tension will cause hair to bend, a simple adjustment will, solve the problem 99% of the time.
4. Store Properly – Place shears in a safe location inside the station or shear case with the blades CLOSED. A shear that falls off a station is better off to fall with the blades closed to reduce the chance of getting a nic in the blades.
5. Utilize the Manufacturer Shear Service Provider – ALWAYS connect with the shear service partner of the manufacturer. They are professionals highly trained to specifically service the shear of the brand. A lot of manufacturers will void the warranty of a shear if another company services it. Read and save all the information that comes with the shear, including the purchase receipt, to better track the product and purchase. And, NEVER take apart shears – leave that to a professional!