18 October 2021

NYFW How To: Jeremy Scott’s Asymmetrical, Monochromatic Madness by Eugene Souleiman

In classic Jeremy Scott fashion, his NYFW AW19 show made a statement on the runways. Backstage, a number of mannequin heads topped with short, straight black wigs stood out as they were lined up in a row…

For those not already aware of Jeremy Scott as a designer, that was all the indication you needed that this was no ordinary catwalk – it was a show with something to say.

The term “statement jacket” was given a whole new meaning in Jeremy Scott’s AW19 collection. Named “Extra! Extra! Read all about it!,” the collection featured blown up renderings of tabloid covers from the New York Post and New York Daily News, hand-drawn onto garments by artist Aleksandra Mir. The message behind the prints was clear, making a statement against the “unending news cycle” of which, by being “mired in the onslaught of sensational and earth-shattering headlines, we are witnesses, victims and perpetrators” all at once.

For Wella Professionals Global Creative Director of Care & Styling and ghd Fashion Week Ambassador Eugene Souleiman, the inspiration for the hair looks focused mainly around three of the key themes seen in Jeremy’s collection: the monochromatic color palette, the use of asymmetry and the manipulation and masking of materials. These themes combined to create hair looks that paid a “true homage” to Jeremy Scott’s expression of “the wonder and horror of our times.”

Eugene has previously remarked that collaborating with Jeremy often brings about “some pretty wild hair.” This season, short black wigs were hacked haphazardly to give an asymmetrical appearance and the roots were covered with thick, white “paint” brushed roughly through the lengths. The hairstyles all followed the monochromatic theme, with every female model wearing the same wig and every male model wearing black hair, streaked with white paint from the roots.

There were multiple techniques used to bring Eugene’s vision to life:
– Models’ hair was sprayed extensively with Wella Professionals EIMI Stay Essential and Wella Professionals EIMI Stay Firm to slick back strands and wrap longer hair around the head before fixating the wigs.
– When the wig was firmly secured, scissors were manoeuvred in an undercut technique all the way around the head, creating textural asymmetry and resulting in a dramatic, sweeping fringe across the face.
– Wigs were then spritzed with Wella Professionals EIMI Sugar Lift to create body and volume from the top and EIMI Stay Essential was used again to create texture in conjunction with the ghd Platinum+ stylers, which were focused on the top of the hair.
– Once the wigs had the desired texture, the white “paint” (a mixture of Wella Professionals EIMI Sculpt Force and white powder) was applied thickly to the roots and spread downwards through the hair lengths using the side of the brush. Only some of the hair lengths were painted completely through to the ends, giving the appearance of what Eugene called “broken texture.” The stark contrast between the straight, choppy black bob and the white powdery roots worked to resemble an inkblot in reverse – a symbolic representation of the intrusion of the news industry into our daily lives.


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