28 March 2024

Underpass Collection by Sassoon Academy

INSPIRATION: Brutalism, a style that hit its peak in the 1970s, provided an uncompromising vision; it’s stripped back and honest ‘streets in the sky’ including London’s Trellick Tower by Erno Goldfinger celebrated the sculptural form of concrete.

There is beauty in the purity of Brutalist architecture – it’s clear in its form without any applied decoration. Materials refuse to be manipulated to look like anything else with no reference to styles of the past. This season, inspiration is drawn from the Brutalist city and the freedom found down in the raw concrete of its underpasses. Austere architecture is subverted by graffiti and the physicality of skaters and free runners who make the space their own.

CUTTING TECHNIQUES
Hair design is conceptual, mixing cut and dressed elements saluting Sassoon’s heritage of editorial hair. Pudding bowls with peekaboo backs, chignons and pony tails take inspiration from the Mifumi by Roger Thompson and Vidal’s innovative Square Curls. Large surface areas of the hair are worked without pointing or slicing. The graphic nature of the sectioning provides a platform for new ways of dressing hair.

COLOURING TECHNIQUES
This season’s palette of concrete grey, carbon blue, brick red and clay brown complement the colours of the over-sized sportswear and puffa jackets creating a new form of urban camouflage. Large areas of colour are mapped across the head creating a tonal diffusion with veils sitting over the top to mask the tones underneath.

  • Credits
    Hair: The International Creative Team led by Mark Hayes
    Makeup: Daniel Koleric
    Styling: Lucie Perrier
    Photo: Benjamin Vnuk

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