19 July 2024

Men’s Hair How To: A Touch of Androgyny by Andrew Carruthers @ Sam Villa

US and European hair trends continually float back and forth across the pond creating a cool evolution of design, particularly in the men’s arena. Andrew Carruthers, director of education for Sam Villa, elaborates and gives a brilliant HOW TO!

The strong masculine trend of traditional barbering hit the US by storm many years ago and quickly swept over to the UK. The Brits brought a fresh spin to the classic designs by adding texture, curl and a forward push reminiscent of the Caesar cut while maintaining the tailored edge mainly found in the barbershop. The US quickly welcomed the influence, especially with the age of gender neutrality and the spot light moving away from the manly-man trends of the past 10 years.

The key for staying in front of this growing trend will be simultaneously reaching back to precision techniques (like shear over comb and clipper fading/tapering) while embracing a new perspective on what your male guests are willing to explore. Let go of the perspective that men don’t use product and don’t blow dry their hair, and be a resource to a growing demographic of dudes that are being inspired by the touch of androgyny making it’s way into the current market,” says Carruthers.

How To:

• Part along the low side of the vertical transition of the head.
• Use shear over comb to remove length working from bottom to the parting – a Sam Villa Artist Series Handle Comb makes this technique easier and improves control – use white for dark hair and black for light hair.
• Switch to the Sam Villa Artist Series Detailing Comb and taper from as close as possible at hairline into the length established in previous step – if an even closer fade is desired, switch to an adjustable clipper and continue working from longest lengths to shorter and shorter.
• Drop hair from top of the head, take vertical sections through the corner of the vertical round, elevate 90 degrees horizontal (parallel with the floor) and point cut for texture – the length does not need to perfectly blend with underneath.
• Starting in the crown, take a horizontal section from side to side across the top of the head, elevate 90 degrees vertical (parallel with the wall) and point cut through corner that is left from previous step.
• With each section, overdirect slightly back to preserve length at the front hairline.
• Prep hair with product appropriate to hair texture, blow dry forward in all directions using a 9-row finishing brush to polish.
• Detail the overall shape, remove weight, and add texture as needed.
• Finish with more of a dry texturizing product or sea spray for a matte, lived-in finish such as Redken Fashion Waves 07.


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