‘A Winter’s Tale’ may be a novel by Mark Helprin set in New York, turned 2014 movie starring a slew of top celebrities, but in Joico’s tale it’s all about going boldly blonde in the Big Apple – a city that can often feel too big.
And after all, “blonding builds confidence!!” and Beth-Minardi trained expert colorist Gion Vincent says that’s what’s “in” in New York City. Bold solid color is very en vogue and a way to stand out amid all the hustle going on in the concrete jungle. A lot of his traditional “highlight clients” are choosing to go for the all-over blonde look says the intrepid colorist. “It’s edgy, statement-making hair. Depending on the effect, it can be punk, or glam, or both!” he says.
One thing most blondes have in common is they hate red, they hate orange, they hate ‘brass’! A little expert know-how from Gion: “To avoid this 100% you have to lighten the hair past the brassy stages all the way to the palest yellow stage, which looks like the inside of a banana peel.” And to do that he says, “you have to use an on-the-scalp lightener.” You can’t typically achieve this look with high-lift permanent color. Gion uses Joico’s Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener. “It has moisturizers which aid in preventing scalp irritation.”
GION’S HOW-TO STEPS:
In a first-time bleach-out I will mix Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener with 20 volume at the root. 20 volume is used because the heat of the scalp aids in the lift almost immediately.
In applying I use a Joico bottle applicator because this ensures perfect coverage. After I have applied and cross-checked using my tint brush, I immediately apply a new mix of Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener mixed with 40 volume on the ends. 40 volume is used because the ends are very hard to lighten past the yellow/gold stage and the hair shaft does not have the heat from the scalp. Process until it is palest yellow. I like to use a shower cap to process to distribute the heat of the scalp through the ends.
The roots will almost always be 100% perfect, but the mid shaft, which may have been previously colored, might still be yellow. After Shampooing a double process, K-PAK Cuticle Sealer pH Neutralizer is put on to sooth the scalp and bring the pH back down. Now I dry the hair and spot bleach with more Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener on any yellow I still see – mostly mids to ends; you can free-hand application but foils are recommended.
After shampoo and conditioning with K-PAK Color Therapy. I use Vero K-PAK Color Toner series: Vero K-Pak Toner Silver Blonde (TSB), Toner Beige Blonde (TBB), and Toner Pearl Blonde (TPB), mixed with 20 volume it obliterates ANY leftover yellow you may have while simultaneously depositing Ash, Pearl or Beige tones into the hair. I like to use this on wet hair, roots to ends 5 minutes at the sink.
After drying the hair, you should have a beautiful blank slate to now give dimension. I like to shadow the root with an acidic demi-permenant crème. Vero K-PAK Chrome Color series does not contain any background color and are pure tone colors, which makes them perfect for pre-bleached hair because they won’t grab dark. Formula 1 ½ V9 + ½ A7 is applied to root only. After root is applied I use the same formula as a low-light in the hair shaft using Beth Minardi Signature Artistic Long Foils. Starting in the back in a v-section; this creates deeper shades of pearly blond.
For even more shine and sparkle I glaze with Vero K-PAK Color Instant Gloss Toner Natural Silver
“Using these products creates a very iridescent, ‘mother of pearl’ blond,” states Gion. He goes on, “I like to think this is punk meets glam. Uptown meets downtown. With the lob being popular, I would suggest this lends to shorter hair a bit better. I suggest that prior to a color change hair be as healthy as possible.” To ensure the hair is at its most elastic tensil strength, Gion recommends weekly Minardi Fortifying Pre-Wash Treatment.
Gion further makes clear that this is not for the beginner colorist. “The fiber of the hair needs to be respected at all times,” he states, and continues to say, “no timing instructions in the bleach-out are given because this step needs to be watched carefully! It is very time consuming, BUT TOTALLY WORTH IT!”
Joico and Beth Minardi Signature® Colorist Gion Vincent gives one of his tips that keep his summertime, beach blondes coming back for more: A lot of blonde clients ask me about protecting their hair on the beach and if they should wear a hat. I tell them to keep the hair hydrated with Joico’s K-PAK Intense Hydrator. Use Minardi Pre-Wash Therapy before swimming. But for their color I say, ‘Dont wear a hat! Have fun!’ Those sun-kissed bleached-out ends are sexy and I’ll fix it when you get back!
For more formulas and tips from the experts visit Joico.com
All images courtesy Gion Vincent / Haircolor by Gion Vincent / Hairstyling by Stephen Wang