Androgyne; when boys and girls blend sartorial codes a decadent disruption takes place.
The new collection from Sassoon Academy, plays with gender and identity across eras and geographies with a series of presentations inspired by the cool riads and cabarets of 1930s Morocco, the street urchins and guttersnipes of Victorian London and the compelling figure of the fallen angel set to rise again in the new age of post recession spirituality.
MOROCCO
Morocco, 1930, where gender slippage takes place under a hot desert sun and the stage for Marlene Dietrich, the epitome of androgynous elegance as cabaret singer Amy Jolly. Louche lingerie inspired looks are the frame for intricate disconnected hairlines with double edged fringes and head-hugging cloche silhouettes. Tones of kohl black and cool blue-red are mixed, blended and layered over the head.
GUTTERSNIPE
Packs of street urchins, mudlarks and guttersnipes roam the streets of Victorian London, petty criminal’s pickpocketing the unwary and living by their wits. Functional ‘no fuss’ hair is cut to last with distorted edges, choppy outlines and worn in details. Natural hair is subtly enhanced with a tonal collage of muted neutral hues accentuating the cut with strategic colour placement.
FALLEN ANGEL
- A modern reworking of Neo-Classicism in the form of the spiritually rebellious fallen angel. Elements of asymmetrical boyish barbering are combined with pure one-length lines. A controlled white on white technique using bi-level and rhythmic zigzag sectioning on longer hair looks creates a loose, ethereal feeling.
- Credits
Hair: The International Creative Team led by Mark Hayes
Color: The International Creative Team led by Peter Dawson
Makeup: Daniel Koleric
Styling: Lucie Perrier
Photo: Colin Roy