27 July 2021

Make Your (Hair) Choice: Kinky or Straight?

No, it’s not about your sex life! It’s about what to do with spaghetti-straight hair that won’t curl or unruly hair that won’t behave…

When women go to the hairdresser, it is seldom for a simple trim. They are usually after a new length, a different cut, a change in color, or even “a new me”. With so many gorgeous trendsetting celebrities populating the ether with stunning and often chameleonic changes both on and off the red carpet, no wonder your clients are always itching for a makeover, an itch which can often easily be scratched by a simple change-up in texture and finish. Estetica asked the experts about the latest trends and how to get them.

Making waves

For this fall, most of the artists we asked are envisioning a continuance of textures in styles. Not necessarily those scrunchy beachy waves of summer, but something more sophisticated or even a combination of different textures, but texture –and more specifically volume– will dominate for many reasons. Most of all, more and more women will be working with what they’ve got, but keeping it healthy. Rusk Global Artistic Director Gerard Caruso says, “Although texture is on the rise, embracing the natural body of one’s hair will be a strong focus this fall, while keeping it tame and full of luster.”

Funnily enough, Artistic Ambassador for Pureology Serious Colour Care Ruth Roche and Eufora Educator Mona Ramsey spoke nearly in unison: “The hottest trend is 1960’s volume in the crown.” Then they diverge slightly. Roche claims that the look will be updated with natural waves and a full crown, while Ramsey says the top-sided volume will be offset by waves or stick-straight ends on long hair.

So the tendency is definitely away from aggressive straightening and smoothing treatments and back to more temporary but hair-healthy solutions. Both Rocky Vitelli and Matt Fugate stand by formaldehyde-free CHI Enviro™ American Smoothing Treatment to keep hair soft and fight frizz as it repels humidity. Mona Ramsey goes to Eufora’s Smooth’n Collection with Shea Butter to relax curls with a less aggressive approach. Sultra Director of Education Dale Koenig relies on the versatility of heat tools in achieving straight sleek looks on command and without chemical enhancements.

Caruso agrees, saying, “We will see more working with products and tools to achieve a quick temporary fix for day or evening.” More then just embracing nature and fashion, Geneva Cowen, Artistic Director for Sam Villa, has noticed a much more “practical” side to getting kinky-haired clients to love their locks. She shared her secret with us, “I have found that if you do a great job on them, they are noticed, making them an amazing source of referrals! We like to call these guests “street talkers”, because wherever they go someone will say ‘I love your hair! Who does it?’. And that is a great in for us!”.
How does she guarantee these referrals? First of all, she swears by Redken satinwear02 for calming the cuticle and adding smoothness.

But Geneva also has another tactic for diagnosing exactly what category of kinks she is about to deal with in order to optimize results: a consultation. “Women with this texture have been working with their hair their entire lives and have a process for controlling unruly curls. I then give them my insight and product suggestions, but can honestly say that my guests have taught me most of what I know about curly hair. So don’t be afraid to ask questions!”, she advises. Many styling products available are now the perfect solution for quick change-ups or refreshers, building volume and defining shape, like Keune’s New Design Volume Powder for flexible hold and a light matte effect.

Or try Scruples Twisted Curl Defining Crème for scrunch’n’go air-dried effect. Indie Hair Dry Shampoo #comeclean is perfect for textured updos. Heat tools are still valuable allies, provided that suitable heat protecting products are used. Ruth Roche, Geneva Cowen, and Mona Ramsey all remind us to use a diffuser, preferably on Tourmaline and Ionic Infused tools, like the Sam Villa Professional Ionic Blow Dryer. This cutting edge technology decreases drying time and helps keep hair healthier. 

Nicole Obert, Design Team Member at Wella Professionals, really sums it up by saying, “Personally, I like to encourage my clients to embrace what they have. The less work they have to put into it, the easier their life will be. Clients know this. If you can give them that, if you can teach them to love their hair… they will be your client for life.”

By Marie Scarano

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