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Seasonal Change/Corrective Color by Goldwell Regional Artistic Team Member Steven Picciano

Wednesday, 09 January 2019 16:53

No matter how beautiful a bold red is, a client may want a more natural looking chestnut brown shade. Here’s an example of how to use @Pure Pigments from Goldwell’s Regional Artistic Team Member, Steven Picciano.

STARTING FORMULA: Apply 40ml Topchic Lotion (20 volume regrowth, 30 volume mid-length and ends), 40ml Topchic 7RR@RR, 2ml @Pure Pigments Pure Red, 3ml @Pure Pigments Pure Orange and 3ml @Pure Pigments Pure Yellow.

CORRECTIVE SHAMPOO FORMULA: Apply 30mL SilkLift 6% Lotion, 30mL Distilled Water, 1 level scoop SilkLift Strong and 3 pumps of SilkLift Intensive Conditioning Serum

  • Step 1: This is a standard formula for a Canvas Cleanse used to lift the existing color to a lighter level in order to deposit back down (in this case) to a Level 6 Brown. Apply your lightener mixture to the colored hair starting at the nape, working your way toward the front.
  • Step 2: Process until desired level of lightness is achieved. Rinse, Shampoo and Condition with DualSenses Rich Repair and blow dry a panel to evaluate level and tone for your corrective formulations.

FORMULATION FOR CHESTNUT BROWN:

Regrowth: Apply 40ml Topchic 3% Lotion, 10ml Topchic 6GB, 10ml Topchic 5MB, 20ml Topchic 6BM, 7ml @Pure Pigments Matte Green and 2ml @Pure Pigments Pearl Blue

Mid-Lengths and Ends: Apply 50ml Topchic 6% Lotion, 10ml Topchic 6GB, 20ml Topchic 6MB, 20ml Topchic 6BM, 7ml @Pure Pigments Matte Green and 3ml @Pure Pigments Pure Yellow

Final Overlay: Apply 60ml Colorance Lotion, 10ml Colorance 5MB, 10ml Colorance 7MB, 10ml Colorance 7G, 3ml @Pure Pigments Matte Green and 6ml @Pure Pigments Pure Yellow

Step 1: Apply Regrowth formula to the first 1 inch of hair.  Using the brush, drag the color down ½ inch to create a softening effect.
Step 2: Then, starting at the nape, apply the second formula to the ends merging the two formulas together at the top of the strand. Process for 30 minutes.
Step 3: Rinse and shampoo with Kerasilk Color Shampoo and towel dry.
Step 4: After the hair is towel dried, apply the overlay formula to the entire canvas and process for 25 minutes.
Step 5: Rinse and condition hair with Kerasilk Color Conditioner. This step helps balance the PH of the hair, closing the cuticle.
Step 6: Apply Kerasilk Control Smoothing Fluid and blow dry.

The overall process took just under four hours from start to finish.

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