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How-To: Take a Walk on the Prep Side with Sam Villa

Thursday, 12 November 2015 15:53

The 90’s are a massive influence on current trends – the era was marked by a poignant contrast of grunge and prep. The grunge aesthetic has grown wildly this past year and the European market picked up on the prep side.

The influence is now winding its way into US fashion and this collection showcases the updated inspiration from the 90’s prep trends with an eye for high fashion. Today’s male guests want dual identity from their looks just as much as the ladies, the Sam Villa ArTeam offers two styling options that are easily achievable in the salon and at home.

THE CUT

PREP
• For ease in cutting and to add shine and softness, apply a small amount of Redken outshine 01 anti frizz polishing milk all over.

TOP
• Part a section that is 34 of an inch below the round of the head.
• Begin guide in the crown with a 1” horizontal section elevated to 90 degrees from the head shape and point cut a flat horizontal line leaving length in the corners.
• Continue working forward in 1” sections overdirected back to previous to build length towards the face and be sure to leave the corners at parietal ridge square.
• To release excessive weight or bulk, take sections that are about 1 inch thick or less. Elevate section at 90° from the head. Release the tension on the hair so that curly hair can gather into its natural ‘locks’. At this point, use a brick lay pattern to trim about 20% of the locks beginning with 3 small cuts close to the head, 2 more half way out from the head and 1 final cut in length. This will remove bulk without the hair becoming frizzy.
NOTE – Length on the top will be detached from the length on sides, especially toward the front.

SIDES & BACK
NOTE – Use the Sam Villa Signature Series 5.5” Swivel Shear to cut the sides and back – a swivel shear makes it easier to use a palm-to-palm cutting technique.
• Begin sides by taking a diagonal back section at the front hairline.
• Overdirect section forward to the front hairline and cut to finger length at 90 degrees horizontal elevation (all hair parallel with the floor).
• Continue towards the back overdirecting slightly forward to the previous cut section until arriving at the corner back (the area just behind the ear where the side of the head changes dramatically to become the back of the head forming a slight corner).
• Take the last section that was cut on the side, swing it back to the back panel and overdirect straight back to a flat wall.  Elevation should maintain 90 degrees horizontal and move across the back of the head using the previous section as a guide.
• Elevate hair at the top of the back panel in horizontal sections joining the last section cut on top panel to 90°to head shape in crown area to connect to top.
• Repeat on opposite side crossing through center back to marry the two sides.
• Detail the perimeter outline to follow natural hairline.
• Use the Sam Villa Signature Series Razor with 6-Gap Blade to create visual texture and remove bulk on sides and in the back panel.

STYLING

LOOK #1 –Wavy
• Spray hair with Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Primer and evenly distribute with fingers.
• Cocktail Redken full frame 07 and Redken for Men grip tight together into palms, emulsify and evenly distribute into the hair with fingers.
NOTE – The long lasting, high control of grip tight gel along with the volumizing effects of full frame 07 will increase the holding power, memory and frizz free result for the diffused blow dry.

SIDES AND BACK
• With the Sam Villa Professional Ionic Blow Dryer positioned behind the Sam Villa Signature Series 9 Row Brush, begin brushing the side back away from the face.
• Follow through to the backside area directing hair to the middle back until both the side and back are completely dry.
•Continue with the same technique for the opposite side and back.

TOP
• Place the deep-dish diffuser on the dryer.
• Turn the speed setting on low and the heat setting on high.
• Using hands, encourage texture and separation to the top by directing and sculpting the hair back and away from the face for desired placement and balance.
• Finish by spraying Redken control addict 28 hairspray all over the head for a long lasting hold.

STYLING

LOOK #2 - Smooth
• Spray hair with Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Primer and evenly distribute with comb.
• Apply a nickel-sized amount of Redken For Men grip tight holding hair gel to palm, emulsify and evenly distribute into the hair.
NOTE – The long lasting, high control of grip tight gel will increase the grip for blow drying while providing high-shine and texture.

SIDES AND BACK
• Repeat steps for Look #1

TOP
• Leading with the first few rows of the Sam Villa Signature Series 9 Row Brush, scoop hair into the brush for tension and elevate to about 45 degrees, directing hair towards the back to create fullness and direction.
• Begin to capture the outside sections by pulling and folding them into the middle – direct the outside inward until completely dry.
• Come into the top front hairline directing the hair up.
• Finish with Redken for Men Maneuver working wax by emulsifying into fingers and raking hair into desired shape.

  • Credits
  • Hair: Team Sam Villa
    Artistic Director: Geneva Cowen
    Photo: Shalem Mathew
    Makeup: Lorina Alailefaleula
    Wardrobe: Chris Lehman

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